Heat Pump Installation
(click on any picture at the bottom for a
larger view)
I spent 6 months
considering all of the options and configurations that were available before I
finally purchased and installed the system.
I did the whole installation myself and it went very smoothly.
I looked at Aqua Air (http://www.aquaair.com/),
Cruisair (http://www.cruisair.com/)
(located in my home town of Richmond, VA and recently acquired by Marine Air), Marine Air (http://www.marineair.com/)
and Mermaid Air (http://www.mmair.com/).
I considered both self-contained and split systems.
I choose a Marine Air Vector Compact 16,000 BTU reverse cycle unit that I
purchased from Ocean Options (http://www.oceanoptions.com/).
This is not the same unit as the Marine Air Cabin Mate (a retail kit)
sold through places like West Marine and Boat/US.
The components used for both are pretty much the same, but the
orientation of discharges are different and the over all cubic inches of space
required was less for the Vector Compact. I
ended up spending a little more going this route than using a Cabin Mate, but it
suited my needs better. The 16,000 BTU rating could be considered over
kill for an IP31, but for the little bit extra in cost, I have a unit that can
handle the hottest days and perform the initial cool down much quicker.
I installed the unit under my v-berth, with the air discharging to my port side
(the IP31 layout is the reverse of the IP32).
From the unit I lead a 6 inch duct to a Y.
From the Y for the forward cabin, I lead a 4 inch duct to a discharge
grill mounted through the side of the hanging locker.
From the other side of the Y for the main saloon, I lead a 6 inch duct to
a discharge grill mounted in the side of the other hanging locker.
The return air for the unit flows through the two louvered doors that
serviced the cabinet space under the v-berth.
It is best to have the shortest duct runs possible with the fewest
angles.
For electrical service, I ran 10 gauge 3 conductor wire down the starboard side
behind the deck/headliner flange. I installed a dedicated 20 amp breaker at the nav station to
service the unit. For the control
head I replaced the flat silver satin cable with a twisted pair cable as it runs
parallel to the power cable for the entire length and did not want to have to
worry about electrical interference.
My water intake is through a speed scoop/thru-hole I located in the bottom of
the port side cabinet under the v-berth, the thru-hole for water discharge is
just forward of this and located about 8 inches above the water line.
It is very important to take in to account the relative levels of each
device. I followed the mounting
instructions provided at http://www.marineair.com/manuals/vector_compact/
to the T. The only deviation I did
was to drain my condensate pan to the bilge.
This is not normally recommended as bilge vapors could get sucked through
this and then discharged into the air via the unit.
I overcame this by running the discharge hose through a hole in the
bottom of the locker. The hole is the same size as the hose so provides a tight
seal when inserted. I then created
a water trap (similar to what you would find under a standard sink) for the
vapor block. Another option that
Mermaid Air sells is passive device (http://www.mmair.com/cond/cond.html)
that connects to the discharge line that sucks out the condensate.
I will probably go back and retrofit one of these and see how well it
does, but for now this setup works well. I will also remove the unit this
spring to paint the interior of the locker and may install some sound dampening
material. Other needs include installing longer tailpieces to the raw
water fittings to allow for double clamping.
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(c) 1996 - 2008 Brian B. Collier. All rights reserved.